Permanent jewellery is the latest trend hitting Australia. Find out how to get started, what you need, where to find wholesale supplies and how to set up your own permanent jewellery business.
Permanent jewellery can be made as a bracelet, ring, anklet, necklace, hand chain or belly chain. We have even seen it made into earrings! It involves fusing the chain directly around the customer's wrist/ankle/neck to achieve a customized fit, eliminating the need for a clasp. Due to being welded permanently, if removal is necessary, the connection must be snipped with flush cutters, nail clippers or heavy kitchen scissors at the jump ring. Reconnection would require revisiting you, the jeweller, for a reweld at a fee of usually around $30. This type of bracelet has become a popular activity for friend groups, mother and daughters or couples seeking matching jewellery sets with meaning.
Crafted from solid gold, 14k gold-filled or sterling silver, permanent jewellery can offer a stylish stacked appearance with many different customisable options. To provide this service, investing in a pulse arc welder is essential. This tool emits a concentrated pulse of energy to heat the metal chain or jump ring and fuse it closed. Argon gas used along side your welder is absolutely necessary for optimal welding strength and a clean weld. It's crucial to source high-quality chain materials capable of withstanding everyday wear without compromising comfort or durability. Solid gold, sterling silver and 14k gold filled are recommended for their longevity compared to gold plated or stainless steel options, which may tarnish or experience weld joint issues over time. Chains are connected will small rings called jump rings, these are also made of solid gold, 14k gold filled or sterling silver.
Depending on the type of chain you will use:
| Wire Gauge | 22 Gauge | 24 Gauge | 26 Gauge |
| Wire diameter | 0.64mm | 0.5mm | 0.4mm |
|
Recommended size |
3.5mm |
2.8mm | 2.3mm |
|
For use on |
For use on thicker chains |
A great all rounder and perfect beginner jump ring | Very small and fine, great for fine chain and experienced PJ artists |
Connectors and charms are great addons to your service and not only look beautiful but can increase your service profit margins. Sterling silver and solid gold have plenty of options but when sourcing gold-filled jewellery charms, there are limitations to consider due to the nature of gold-filled material and its manufacturing process, particularly its inability to be cast.
Here's an explanation:
Gold-filled jewellery is composed of a base metal core, typically brass or copper, that is coated with a layer of gold through a mechanical bonding process. This layer of gold is much thicker than that of gold plating, offering higher durability and longevity. However, because gold-filled material is essentially a layered product rather than a solid metal, it presents challenges when it comes to certain manufacturing techniques, such as casting.
Casting is a common method used in jewellery making to create intricate and detailed designs by pouring molten metal into a mold. However, due to the composition of gold-filled material, which consists of a layer of gold bonded to a base metal core, it cannot be effectively cast. The high temperatures involved in the casting process can cause the gold layer to separate from the base metal, resulting in defects and inconsistencies in the finished product.
As a result, sourcing gold-filled jewellery charms may be limited in terms of design options compared to solid gold or other materials that can be cast. Due to these limitations there are unscrupulous wholesalers out there that sell gold filled charms that are in fact gold plated and not fit for the permanent jewellery industry. It always pays to be suspicious and do your research on gold filled findings.
Having the right tools for the job is imperative, having been a nail tech originally myself and now working with permanent jewellery I understand the importance of the perfect set of tools and just how much easier it makes our work. Having the right set of flush cutters, chain nose pliers and grounded pliers made the world of difference when I first started my permanent jewellery business. Another essential is a 10x magnifying lamp with a strong light - those jump rings can be hard to see!
Finally, the most important things of all are those that keep you and your client safe. As you are producing a spark both you and your client need to be wearing shade 5 glasses to protect your eyes and it is essential to be using a leather patch between your weld and your client's skin - burns can happen!
Managing Customer Expectations
When offering permanent jewellery, clear communication is vital to managing client expectations. Topics to address include the suitability of permanent jewellery for certain activities, the potential for charms and links to snag, the malleability of precious metals, repair and replacement policies, and care instructions for maintaining the jewellery's condition.
Having crystal clear warranty policies at the time of purchase is essential to having as few negative client interactions as possible. Many permanent jewellery artists include a warranty card in their jewellery care packs. These include details like client name, weld date, care instructions and a clearly outlined warranty. The standard permanent jewellery warranty generally consists of offering a free re-weld if the chain has broken at the jump ring within 30 days. If the chain has broken at one of the links it has obviously had too much force applied to it during an activity not recommended for permanent jewellery and the warranty is void. In this instance repair is always a possibility, but for a fee. Additionally, you should warn clients that a thinner style chain will break easier than a thicker chain and they should be cautious.
To preserve the integrity of permanent jewellery, clients should be educated on proper care practices, including avoiding contact with substances that may tarnish the metal. Adequate storage and welding precautions should also be taken by you to prevent exposure to damaging chemicals. Storing your chains in airtight containers or bags is an excellent way to preserve your chain and prevent your silver from tarnishing while waiting to be turned into permanent jewellery. Certain materials, such as pearls, stones other than diamonds or sapphires/rubies, gold-plated or enamelled chains or charms, are not recommended for permanent jewellery due to their susceptibility to wear or damage. Despite the limitations of these materials, they are often used and marketed as 'seasonal' pieces with communication to clients that these pieces will not last as long.
Creating permanent jewellery involves precise measurement, cutting, and fusion of the chain using your pulse arc welder. Careful consideration should be given to avoid overheating the metal and to achieve a seamless appearance. Despite its appeal and cheaper price point, gold plated jewellery is not recommended for permanent use due to its thinly layered construction, which may lead to premature wear, tarnishing and disappointment for your clientele.
While establishing a clear warranty policy and cleaning instructions, you should also implement an airtight permanent jewellery consent form to protect your business. Your consent forms ensure that customers are aware of the associated risks and responsibilities before committing to permanent jewellery and will not hold you or your business liable for any injuries caused by their permanent jewellery or the welding process.
Setting up your business will take time but the rewards and profits are well worth the effort. Permanent jewellery offers a compelling combination of uniqueness, craftsmanship, customer loyalty, and revenue opportunities. By focusing on quality, customization, and customer service, your business can thrive in this niche market and establish a strong foothold in the jewellery industry.